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I have come across a little compressed air tank that I’d like to clean up and overhaul. I don’t know anything about good compressed air practices and wondered if anyone might have some advice? The steel tank has an expiration date stamped in it. If the tank looks good, can I safely ignore this? There is a drift of fine black particles inside the bottom of the tank. They are as small as sand, but are shiny and black and rounded. Anyone know what these are? Should I leave or dump them? Thanks in advance~

Im looking for a flashlight to be used for nightly law enforcement work in a major US city. Im not a huge flashlight expert, so thats why I came here I currently own a Surefire G2 Nitrolon and a Surefire E2D LED Defender I plan on carrying the E2D as a backup light, but I need a primary light thats -rechargable (having to buy an additonal conversion is ok) -runtime of more than 2 or so hours (the more the better) -tailcap push button on/off -WITHOUT a bunch of different intensity settings like on the Streamlight LEDs basically im looking for a rechargable SF G2 LED with regards to that statement, ive seen this http://www.surefire.com/B65-Rechargeable-Battery which says it fits the G2, but im not sure if that would also include the G2LED. can anyone shed some light on that or reccomend a different light to use? Thank you, this seems like a great forum

After having melted down 3 McClickies trying to run an SST-90 Direct Drive, I’m starting to want a more hardy setup that lasts me longer than 3 days. Now lacking the technical knowledge and tools to do any serious modifying , I’d need one already made, that someone else can make for me(and doesn’t have his schedule fully booked like milkyspit or Moddoo), or something that’s ridiculously simple to modify. Looking at my current McClicky, I feel as though the solution is just inches away. The main problem appears to be that the heat generated by the high current is trapped in the spring and other metal contacting it, thus warping the spring and melting the plastic components. I’ve been toying with the idea of using my currently available Arctic Silver 5 thermal grease to try and create a thermal path between the spring and the Brass ring. However, while AS5 isn’t electrically capacitive, that doesn’t mean that electricity won’t flow through it, and I don’t want a parasitic drain on the battery by having the switch essentially be “on” all the time. Plus it’s pretty messy to use in that manner. I’m thinking about using one of the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesives to create a thermal path from the bottom of the spring to the metal ring that makes contact with the Brass ring. The problem, I think, would be how well the heat will flow over nothing but the epoxy itself between the two metal pieces. I’m also thinking about using AS5 between the metal ring on the switch and the brass ring. With the AA epoxy between the spring and the metal ring, there shouldn’t be current running through, and having AS5 between the two rings shouldn’t have any effect on that.

The name alone made me laugh & cringe at the same time, but it’s kinda cute & it’s ti with a bunch of nice slots for trits. 64 bucks at hkequipment.net, but have never heard of the brand; Features: Cree R2 LED module, max 180lumens Machined from Titanium, durable and reliable Ultra-Clear Impact-resistant optical lens 3 Modes operation with last mode memory: Hi - 180, Low - 30, Strobe - 30 High efficient Smooth reflector, beam throw distance up to 100 meters Operation voltage 2.4v - 4.2v with battery polarity protection Powered by 1x CR2 battery Reliable twist switch Tail stand can act as candle Water and Impact resistant Package includes (with original box packaging): Fireworm Flashlight x1 Fireworm Keychain x1 Operation Manual x1 Energizer / Panasonic CR2 battery x1 Specs are from hk’s site. The modes are not well chosen, but might make an interesting modder. Anyone pick one up yet? Or, would anyone admit to packing around a Fireworm in thier pocket?:p

I need an experts help on this one. Ok, so I’ve been waiting for the new Toshiba E-CORE LED bulbs to come to the US, and almost debated ordering direct from Japan where they have been available for 6+ months. For those of you who haven’t seen this here is a link: http://www.tlt.co.jp/tlt/new/lamp/hp_led/ippan_aw8.htm It is basically, 8.7 watts and outputs 810 lumens. That is 93 lm/W. Just saw they are finally coming here but when I read the specs on the US Toshiba site the specs are completely different: http://www.toshiba.com/lighting/prod…?id1=42&id2=65 It is showing 7.8 watts and outputs only 350 lumens. That is only 44.9 lm/W. So, what is happening here? I can only think of 2 possibilities: 1) They give us americans some cheaper version. 2) The us method of measuring lumen output is different? Anyone have any ideas? They seem nearly identical, with the model #’s being almost the same.

I recently pulled an MC-E from a Ray-O-Vac torch that I prevously modded to MC-E, so that I could convert it to an XP-G torch instead. With that homeless MC-E in hand an a whole bunch of other spare parts and 8 Duraloop AAs laying around, I decided to McGruber together a torch. All I had to buy was a Mag 2C incan for $15. Recipie: 1) desolder used MC-E from parallel board and reflow (hotplate) solder onto 4s board 2) dust off unused DX 26106 800mA boost driver and mod for single mode (This will drive the 4s MC-E at 800mA per die, boosting input voltage of 5.2-8.4v to ~14.4V out, (equivalent to running a 4P MC-E at ~3.2A insted of 2.8A). Cut post off of Mag switch and mount driver board to it 3) tear through entire length of 2C host with 35mm hole saw from tail to neck, just so you can fit the uncut “heatsink” in the neck 4) drill and tap holes in the .75″ chunk of 1 3/8″ round bar used as a heatsink, apply thermal grease liberally to outside and to thin strip of aluminum foil. wrap heatsink once or twice around with aluminum file, pass LED wires from driver through holes and press fit the whole stack into the Mag neck. Solder 4S MC-E board in place, lather up with thermal grease and secure with screws 5) apply glowy goodness to star board 6) drop-in leftover (and damaged, have new one on the way) DX 53*30mm MOP reflector (that ought to put a nice spot on the MC-E) 7) convert WallyWorld 3s2p 6AA carrier to 6s (so much easier than building 8AA carrier and modding DX board for 9.6V input) comapre working torch to more carefully planned projects and giggle when it out performs your HA-III 2*18650 P7 C-bin torch. 9) snap photos, post, go to bed :p 2. 3. 5. 6. 7.

Hello all, This is my 1st post. I really have my eye on one of these models. I’m not sure if one performs better than the other, depending on my choice of battery configuration. For the TK-30, I know I would want to go with 2 of the highest mAh, 18650s and a charger. For the TK-40, I would want to go with the highest mAh, NiMh, AA batteries along with a capable charger. Can anyone tell me about their experience with either of these models. If so, can you tell me exactly what your battery specs are, that you are using, and what make/model of charger you’re using. Is one model slightly better than the other, or is it just a matter of what kind of battery system one wants to go with. I’ve been looking at separate battery and charger combos from Battery Junction. Your help is greatly appreciated. Slicey

Was checking out Gall’s website and I ran into this http://www.galls.com/style.html?asso…og&style=FL900 It says Gall’s Exclusive, 120 Lumens, dual output with strobe, nitrolon body with new looking head and metal tailcap. Only one I seen new is the Z2-S and it’s 10 bucks more.

I just saw a new Rayovac LSD in Wally World. The AA came in an eight pack for $13 and change and has the green, silver and black wrapper like their cheapo low capacity regular (crap)NIMH. This said precharged on the battery and claimed 60% retention after one year. They didn’t seem to be The regular Hybrid ROV nor the new 4.0 incarnation. I almost picked up a pack but decided to check with you folks to see if anyone had checked the capacity and if there any other thoughts on these. Thanks

Here’s some time lapse videos of hallway beam shots. I’ve been fiddling and reworking the videos, so I decided to make a new thread, which I can update easily as I finish more. Hopefully, weather and time permitting, I will have some outdoor shots soon. Please watch in HD and I recommend pausing and rewinding to see things you are particularly interested in. iTP EOS A3 vs EagleTac T20C2 vs MagCharger vs NiteCore D10 1/8th sec , f9.0, 800 ISO, Nikon D5000 @ 24 mm iTP EOS A3 vs Maglite 3D, MiniMag, and Solitaire 1/2 sec , f9.0, 800 ISO, Nikon D5000 @ 24 mm NiteCore D10 Tribute 14500 Li-ion vs NiMH 1/2 sec , f9.0, 800 ISO, Nikon D5000 @ 24 mm EagleTac T20C2 vs MagCharger 1/2 sec , f9.0, 800 ISO, Nikon D5000 @ 24 mm Please feel free to offer suggestions (and send me lights to review :grin2:) so I can improve. I feel like this is a really effective (if time consuming) way to truly demonstrate otherwise abstract concepts like run time and brightness.